Monthly Archive for September, 2008

2008 Pyongyang Film Festival

On location: North Korean film set

On location: North Korean film set

Lost amid all the hype surrounding the health of it’s commander-in-chief, North Korea opened it’s biennial Pyongyang International Film Festival this week.

Far from avant garde, the North Korean film industry cranks out glorious and prolific tear jerkers - usually about the trials faced during the war of independence from Japan.

However, on one visit, I was able to screen a martial arts action film called “Pyeongyang Nalparam“.

<sarcasm>This movie was quite a bit different, because it involved fighting the Japanese in the early 1900’s instead of the mid-1900’s.  And of course, martial arts, instead of guns.</sarcasm>

The editing left a lot to be desired and I found new appreciation for the movies that make it into theaters in the west - no matter what their review/ratings.

Editorial: The Incredible Diminishing US

North Korea just stuck it’s thumb in the eyes of the US by re-assembling it’s nukes, disregarding the terrorism blacklist, testing missile engines and George Bush’s response - nothing.

Russia kicked sand in America’s face and marched into the sovereign country of Georgia and NATO’s response - nada.

US tried to clean up Al-Qaeda that Pakistan seemed unable to do and Pakistan’s response - get the heck out of our land and don’t let the front door of the Marriott hit your ass on the way out…  What is it with these people?  Aren’t we fighting the same bad guys?

On the US home front: Wall Street greed and greedy home owners all consorted to conjure up the worst set of toxic debt ever and US government’s response - bail out the schmucks, reward their promiscuity and save their golden parachutes.

How will the US pay for this bailout?  By printing more money and selling more US government bonds.  Who will buy them?  You guessed it - most likely foreign investors.  What affect will this have on US foreign policy?  Unknown, but I’m sure the US will have to take all this into account before starting any new wars.  The picture of an America tip-toeing around the world seems sad…

Let’s face it, the US is turning into a land of irrelevance.

I caught the CNN interview of 5 former secretaries of state and their recommendations for the next president.  The diminished standing, power and influence of the US was palpable.  The strong, silent confidence of America seemed hard to find -many of the recommendations seemingly centered around “collaboration” and “co-operation” with other nations.

With credibility in the world diminished from the War in Iraq, the US is now having to reap what it sowed.

Obama or McCain - it doesn’t matter which one - you have some serious diminishment to deal with…

Pyongyang Restaurants Proliferate

Okryu-Gwan

Okryu-Gwan

North Korean run “Pyongyang” style restaurants are a common sight in north east China.  Especially in cities like Shenyang, Yanji, Dandong and even Beijing.  But, how about Phnom Penh?

Yes, Cambodia has been one of the few friends of North Korea since the early 70’s, but these restaurants are a recent addition to the Cambodian restaurant scene.  Why the recent interest in Cambodia?

In short, the answer is: “South Koreans”.  With the willingness of Cambodia and Vietnam to open up to business development, more and more South Koreans are traveling to these distant and remote places.  And with them, a steady stream of customers for North Korean food.

The same menu of dancing and singing waitresses with beautiful, but melancholy, smiles can be seen in Siem Reap, Saigon and Ho Chi Minh City,   You can even find the famous Pyongyang cold noodles in Mongolia and Nepal.

From the DPRK’s perspective, these countries have had favorable diplomatic and business relationships with North Korea for a while and they feel the risk is manageable.  They certainly don’t mind making money off the traveling South Koreans - singing of reunification, hawking DPRK products and soju, while sending a lion’s share of the profits back to their motherland.

Although, the business arrangements differ depending on the particular restaurant, most are licensed and approved by Pyongyang before any “real” North Korean employees are sent out.  In fact, you have to beware of many “fake” North Korean style restaurants in China where the workers are reallying Chinese-Koreans and the food is not authentic.

An unexpected side effect, however, is that many of these “non-aligned” nations who used to be favorable to DPRK’s stance against the west are now being swayed by the wealth and influence of South Koreans.

“Both the people and the government of South Korea are richer,” Cheam Yiep, a Cambodian People’s Party lawmaker who heads the National Assembly’s committee on finance and banking, said. “Now South Korean tourist visits are No. 1, leading other countries.”

“In general, we count both North and South Korea equally,” he said. “But the difference is that South Korea invests a lot more than North Korea. It is as simple as that.”

Western countries have always viewed South Korea as the rightful steward of the Korean peninsula, should DPRK collapse.  But, how long before the few “friends” North Korean has, start to feel the same way as the west?

Korean American Perspective

Here is a recent interview with Christine Ahn, a Korean American who recently visited DPRK.  Many of her views reflect other Korean Americans that have visited North Korea.

Although, I share the many of her views as well, the interview comes across, at times, as being a bit flowery with flattery mixed in.  It’s natural, though.  When visiting North Korea, one gets into a habit of trying to find something - anything - nice to say about the place to the guides and any locals you happen to meet.

And sometimes, this carries on even after returning from North Korea.  To be sure, that is exactly the outcome that the North Koreans would like to have on visiting overseas ethnic Koreans.  They would like nothing better than to have the Korean “diaspora”, who are living in the west, to cast DPRK in favorable light.  Their expectations are that these overseas Koreans should help the motherland - whatever “help” may mean…  In this regard, the Korean-Japanese (Chongryon) are astounding in their loyalty to the DPRK “motherland” - even though they are very much exposed to the modern world.

I’m of the opinion that if North Korea really was so concerned about being in positive light, that they would take solid steps to opening up and making fundamental changes in their country.  Reliance on the words, actions and pocketbooks of overseas Koreans are a poor substitute.

Missile Testing at Newly Revealed Base

More news is trickling out about the recently made public Tongch’ang-dong missile base near Pongdong-ni, North Korea.

Some of the feature upgrades over their older Musudan-ni facility includes a movable launch pad, a 10-story tall tower , a new rocket motor test pad for better reliability testing and more hills for better privacy.

According to AP reports, engine testing occurred several months ago.

According to U.S. government officials, U.S. intelligence has known about this new base for some years.  But, it took a report from Jane’s Defense Weekly to publicly reveal the details of the capabilities of the new base.

The timing is curious as it comes at a time of heightened speculation about the leadership in the DPRK and amid a stall in the six-party nuclear disarmament talks.

In what appears to be a response to the North Korean missile threats, Korea Times reports that advanced Patriot missile defence systems from Germany has been deployed at unidentified locations throughout South Korea.

Defector Gains Permanent U.S. Residency

Kim Mi Ja (pseudonym) is the first North Korean defector to be granted permanent U.S. residency under the North Korea Human Rights Act of 2004.  The details of this legislation can be found here (PDF) and on Wikipedia.

A reported 63 North Korean defectors are currently living in the U.S.  Most of them have reportedly applied for permanent residency.

Some North Korean refugees living both in China and South Korea quietly prefer a U.S. residency over South Korea and have placed hopes in this legislature.  However, as we reported before, those refugees who have already made it to South Korea, will find it difficult to seek residency elsewhere in the west.

North Korea After Kim

“Every major intelligence agency across the world does the exercise. Call it the ‘hit by the bus’ scenario. If leader X of important/sensitive/unstable country Y drops dead tomorrow, what happens? Who takes over? How might that change things? For some countries, the exercise is simple. For others, it’s murky and complicated. Then there’s North Korea.”  - www.time.com

Well, hand it to North Korea, Kim Jong-Il has again set the news media chattering away about the future of the DPRK and the implications of a nuclear North Korea without the “Dear Leader” at the helm.

Timing is impecable: all eyes were on the fashionable military parade to see if the Chairman would show.  When he didn’t, it touched off a firestorm of speculation and North Korea arm-chair analysts had a field day.

World Cup Qualifier Ends in 1:1 Draw

Supporters at the DPRK Women's Soccer Game in China

Supporters at the DPRK Women's Soccer Game in China

After vowing to end a string of no score draws in previous North vs. South football matches, the North Korean football team was the first to score a goal at the FIFA World Cup Qualifier held in Shanghai last night.  But, after few minutes the South Korean team scored a goal to tie things up.  Final score was a 1:1 draw.

Here is some details of the match and another.

Book Review: Jia: A Novel

Here is a well-written book review of “Jia: A Novel” by Hyejin Kim.  The reviewer is Christian Caryl who works as the Tokyo Bureau Chief of Newsweek.  The review itself provides some very insightful views of North Korea and the book looks like a worthy read.

60 Years

Today, North Korea (DPRK) marks it’s 60th anniversary of it’s founding on Sept 9, 1948.  To cap the celebrations, the North holds a large-scale military parade to display unity and military might.

We are all familiar with those menacing-looking, goose-stepping soldiers marching in incredible unison.  What many people don’t know is that these guys have been practicing those high steps since Spring.  I watched on with fascination at their dedication and the droning of their incessant cadence.  Everyone had a number and whoever was out-of-line or out-of-step was rebuked.

It’s interesting the timing of a barrage of news coverage on rumors of the health of the “Dear Leader”.  There was one from the left-field, as a Japanese “expert” opined that the “Dear Leader” had died in 2003.  Then another more plausible one from South Korea stating Chinese doctors were in the North to treat high-level officials.  CNN and many other reliable sources are starting to pick up on this chatter.  Undoubtedly, there will be many eyes scouring the videos of today’s military parade for any clues.

My personal guess is that he won’t show.

What will the next 60 years hold?

Many people have said that perhaps more than one generation on both the North and the South would have to pass away before there is a true reconciliation and possible re-unification.

Since an average generation (time between generations) should be about 30 years, we should already be into our 3rd generation after the Korean War.  Those born around 1948 (1st gen) would likely have kids around 1978 (2nd gen) who will likely be starting to have kids around 2008 (3rd gen).

As for the old-farts that still remember the war - they are fading fast.  If you were fighting age in 1948, you would be well past 75 years old now.  Remember, Kim Jong-Il was only about 7 years old at the founding of DPRK.

One could take a cynical view and wonder if, after generations apart, the Korean people could ever re-unite.  I prefer to take the optimistic point of view and think that we are long over due for a breakthrough.  I’m all in for something big to start happening in the near future.